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Bibliography

Contents

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Primary Books, Articles, and Toys

Anderson, Hattie E. "Making a Clothing Budget for Working Girls." Journal of Home Economics 20 (May 1928): 315-320.

Anonymous. Etiquette for Ladies and Gentlemen; or, The Principles of True Politeness, To which is added The Ball-Room Manual. London, n.p., n.d. [1860].

Bradley's Tru-Life Paper Dolls. Springfield, Massachusetts: Milton Bradley Company, 1914, 1916. Joseph Downs Manuscript Collection, Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library.

Brown, Clara. "Open Forum: Are We Justified in Teaching Clothing Construction?" Journal of Home Economics 15 (February 1923): 88-90.

Child, Lydia Marie. The American Frugal Housewife (Dedicated to those who are not ashamed of economy). 1833. Reprint, Bedford, Massachusetts: Applewood Books, [19--].

Clark, Sue Ainslie, and Edith Wyatt. Making Both Ends Meet: The Income and Outlay of New York Working Girls. New York: MacMillan Co., 1911.

Clark, Victor S. History of Manufactures in the United States. 3 vols. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Co., for Carnegie Institution of Washington, 1929.

Coates, Lydia Trattles. American Dressmaking Step by Step, containing complete, concise, up-to-date, and comprehensible instruction in Sewing, Dressmaking and Tailoring. 2nd ed. New York: The Pictorial Review Company, 1920.

A Conference on Manual Training. Boston: New England Conference Education Workers, 1891.

Cooke, Maude C. Social Etiquette or Manners and Customs of Polite Society. Boston, G. M. Smith & Co., 1896.

Cooley. Anna M. Domestic Art in Woman's Education (for the use of those studying the method of teaching domestic art and its place in the school curriculum). New York: Charles Scribners' Sons, 1911.

Cranor, Katherine. "Homemade Versus Ready-Made Clothing." Journal of Home Economics 12 (May 1920): 230-233.

Crowell-Collier Co. National Markets and National Advertising. New York: The Crowell Publishing Co., 1922.

The Dressmaker. New York: Butterick Publishing Co., 1911.

Fryer, Jane Eayre. Easy Steps in Sewing, For Big and Little Girls, or Mary Frances Among the Thimble People. Illustrated by Jane Allen Boyer. Philadelphia: Universal Book and Bible House, 1913.

Gladish, Nancy G. "Household Arts and the High School Girl." Journal of Home Economics 11 (November 1919): 488-497.

Glanton, Louise Phillips. "Does it Pay to Sew at Home?" Journal of Home Economics 15 (May 1923): 277-279.

Goodwin, Emma E. Goodwin's Course in Sewing: Practical Instruction in Needlework for Use in Schools and at Home. New York: Frank D. Beatty's and Company, 1912.

Gray, Greta. "Vocational Training for Girls." The Journal of Home Economics 11 (November 1919): 493-497, 495.

Hackley, E. Azalia. The Colored Girl Beautiful. Kansas City, MO. The Burnton Publishing Company, 1916.

Hall, Florence Howe. The Correct Thing In Good Society. Boston, 1902.

Hapgood, Olive C. School Needlework: A Course of Study in Sewing Designed for Use in Schools. Teacher's edition. Boston: Ginn & Company, 1893.

Hastie, Mabel and Geraldine Gorton. "What Shall We Teach Regarding Clothing and Laundry Problems?" Journal of Home Economics 18 (March 1926): 127-133.

Hershey, Edythe P. "Putting the Home on a Business Basis." University of Texas Bulletin. 10 January 1920, revised 1921.

Holt, Elizabeth G. "Negro Industrial Training in the Public Schools of Augusta, GA." The Journal of Home Economics 4 (October 1912): 315-323.

Home Sewing Helps: Ideas and Instructions That Make Possible the Development of Many Lovely Garments and Articles of Use in the Home. Scranton, PA:

Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, Inc., in association with the International Educational Publishing Co., 1925.

Jessup, Anne L., ed. The Sewing Book, Containing Complete Instructions in Sewing and Simple Garment-Making for Children in the Primary and Grammar Grades. New York: The Butterick Publishing Co., 1913.

Johnson, Gertrude T. Domestic Science, A Text in Cooking and Syllabus in Sewing, prepared for use in the Kansas City Elementary Schools, Yet eminently fitted for home work. Kansas City, MO: The Burton Publishing Co., 1911.

Kellerman, Annette. How to Swim. New York: George H. Doran Co., 1918.

Kinne, Helen and Anna M. Cooley. Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home Making. New York: The MacMillan Company, 1916.

Low, Juliette. How Girls Can Help Their Country: Handbook for Girl Scouts. 1913. Reprint, Washington, DC: Girl Scouts of the USA, 1972.

A Manual of Family Sewing Machines. New York: Singer Sewing Machine Company, February and November 1914.

A Manual of Family Sewing Machines. New York: Singer Sewing Machine Co., 1923.

Morgan, Mary H. How To Dress A Doll. Philadelphia: Henry Altemus Company, 1908.

Phelps, Elizabeth Stuart. What to Wear? (Boston: James R. Osgood and Co., 1873).

Picken, Mary Brooks. How To Make Children's Clothes the Modern Singer Way. New York: Singer Sewing Machine Co., 1927.

Scouting for Girls: Official Handbook of the Girl Scouts. New York: The Girl Scouts Inc., 1920.

Spafford, Ivol. Fundamentals in Teaching Home Economics. New York: John Wiley & Sons, 1935.

Thirteenth Annual Report of the Young Women's Christian Association of Brooklyn. New York: Young Women's Christian Association of Brooklyn, 1901.

Twenty-Five Years of Retailing, 1911-1936. New York: National Retail Dry Goods Association, 1936.

Watson, Edith B. "A Layette Project." Journal of Home Economics 20 (November 1928): 803-805.

Wharton, Edith. The Age of Innocence. New York: Appelton and Company, 1920), 27.

Webster, Jean. When Patty Went to College. New York: Grosset & Dunlap, 1903.

Willard, Frances E. A Wheel Within A Wheel: How I Learned to Ride the Bicycle, With Some Reflections By The Way. 1895. Bedford, Massachusetts, 1997.

Winchell, Cora M. Home Economics for Public School Administrators. New York: Teacher's College, Columbia University Bureau of Publications, 1931.

Yezierska, Anzia. Bread Givers. 3rd ed. New York: Persea Books, 2003.

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Manuscript and Photograph Collections

Butterick Archives. Butterick Co., Inc. New York, New York.

Cambridge Sewing Club. Papers. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute for Advanced Study.

Crofton, Gabrielle Josephine. Diary. Hagley Museum and Library, Wilmington, Delaware.

du Pont, Francis Gurney. Papers. Hagley Museum and Library, Wilmington, Delaware.

Ellis, Blanche M. Diary. Downs Collection of Manuscripts and Printed Ephemera, Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library, Wilmington, Delaware.

Gamble, Elizabeth Chafee. Papers. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute for Advanced Study.

Jacob A. Riis Neighborhood Settlement Records. Manuscripts and Archives Division, New York Public Library.

Jenny Wren Club of Allston, M.A. Records. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute for Advanced Study.

Loop, Florence. Graded Sewing Exercises. Downs Collection of Manuscripts and Printed Ephemera, Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library, Wilmington, Delaware.

McBurney Family Photographs. Downs Collection of Manuscripts and Printed Ephemera, Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library, Wilmington, Delaware.

Miller, Margaret Motter. Papers. Downs Collection of Manuscripts and Printed Ephemera, Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library, Wilmington, Delaware.

1910 Sewing Circle. Minutes. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute for Advanced Study.

Photographs, ca 1895-1900. Hermitage Museum, Ho-Ho-Kus, New Jersey.

Vail, Georgiana. Diaries. Downs Collection of Manuscripts and Printed Ephemera, Winterthur Museum, Garden and Library, Wilmington, Delaware.

Viles-Wyman, Lilla Bell. Journal. Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute of Advanced Study.

Wanamaker diary. Winterthur Museum, Gardens and Library.

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Museum Artifacts

Bathing costume. Black and white wool. American, ca. 1870-73. 1979.346.18ab. Gift of the New-York Historical Society. Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Bathing costume. Black cotton with white piping. American, ca. 1910. H75.415. Hermitage Museum, Ho-Ho-Kus, New Jersey.

Bathing costume. Black cotton with white piping. American, ca. 1910. 94.14.59. Hermitage Museum.

Bathing suit. Purple wool-silk blend. American, ca. 1915-1925. 1979.124.3. Gift of J. Robert Hoffman. Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Bathing costume. Black silk. American, ca. 1900. 88.19.19. Hermitage Museum.

Bicycle costume. Cream linen. American, ca. 1908. 72.20.1ab. Gift of Mr. John Noble. Costume and Textiles Collection, Museum of the City of New York.

Bicycle costumes. Brown linen and wool. American, ca 1900. CI.55.41.5ab. Gift of Miss Mathilde E. Webber. Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Girl's dress. White cotton batiste with lace, tucks and embroidery. American, 1914. 72.17.3. Gift of Mrs. Marie W. Fletcher. Costume and Textiles Collection, Museum of the City of New York.

Girl's dress. White cotton voile with net. American, 1918. 59.178.1. Gift of the Misses Anna S. and Helen Frankle. Costume and Textiles Collection, Museum of the City of New York.

Girl's dress. White cotton voile with lace and punched embroidery. American, 1920. 91.214.1. Gift of Harriet Lange Hayne. Costume and Textiles Collection, Museum of the City of New York.

Gymnastic costume. Navy blue wool. American, 1890s. 1981.149.10. Gift of the Jacqueline Loewe Fowler Costume Collection. Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Gymnasium uniform. Cotton twill. American, 1929. 1980.193.1ab. Gift of Sadie E. Scudder. Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Gymnasium costume. Black silk. American, ca 1904. 84.16.9ab. Hermitage Museum.

Gymnasium costume. Blue serge. American, ca 1905, 63.186.5ab. Gift of Miss Margaret D. Leverich. Costume and Textiles Collection, Museum of the City of New York.

Gymnastic costume. Black silk. American, ca 1904. 84.16.9ab. Hermitage Museum.

Gymnasium costume. American, 1890s. 44.66.1ab. Gift of Mrs. Henry James Spencer. Museum of the City of New York.

Sweater. Blue wool. American, ca 1895. 38.149.16. Gift of Mrs. John Hubbard. Costume and Textiles Collection, Museum of the City of New York.

Wedding dress. Cream silk, silk net and satin ribbon. American, 1916. Gift of Edna Maine Spooner. University of Rhode Island Historic Textile and Costume Collection.

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Business Records and Sewing Patterns

Butterick Co. Lady's Bathing Costume, Pattern #6838. 1894.Butterick Archives, New York City.

Butterick Co. Dress for Misses or Small Women, Pattern #8691. Ca. 1916. Betty Williams Pattern Archive, University of Rhode Island Special Collections.

Butterick Co. Frock for Women and Young Girls, Pattern #1449. Ca. 1925. Author's personal collection.

Harper's Bazar. Fold-out pattern. October, 1903. Library of Congress.

A Manual of Family Sewing Machines. New York: Singer Sewing Machine Company Records, Hagley Museum and Library, Wilmington, Delaware.

McCall Pattern Company. Ladies' and Misses' Negligee, Pattern #5044. Ca. 1925. Author's personal collection.

Reynard, Pauline. A Century of Home Sewing. Unpublished typescript, 1951. Singer Sewing Machine Company Records.

Ruppell, G.A. The Story of Butterick. Unpublished typescript, 1929. Butterick Archives, New York City.

Sears, Roebuck & Co. Catalog No. 111. Chicago: Sears, Roebuck & Co. 1902.

---. Catalog. Chicago: Sears, Roebuck & Co., 1908.

---. Catalog. Chicago: Sears, Roebuck & Co., 1916.

---. Catalog. Chicago: Sears, Roebuck & Co., 1924.

The Sewing Machine Business As It Is To-Day. Pamphlet, n.d. New-York Historical Society.

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Oral Histories and Personal Communications

Byrd, Winifred. Interview by author. Tape recording. Plainfield, New Jersey, 24 May 2001.

Day, Jackie. E-mail correspondence with author. 31 October 2006.

Dunn, Jane. Interview by author. Telephone interview. 4 May 2001.

Durand, Marjorie. Interview by author. Tape recording. Telephone interview. 12 April 2001.

Epstein, Florence. Interview by author. Tape recording. Telephone interview. 2 May 2001.

Goodman, Marian. Interview by author. Tape recording. Wallingford, Connecticut, 9 May 2001.

Gordon, Patricia (Mrs. Herbert Pollock). Interview by author. Tape recording. Wallingford, Connecticut, 9 May 2001.

Gulrich, Jean. Interview by author. Telephone interview. 7 April 2001.

Knapp, Mary. Conversation with author. New York, New York, 27 March 2001.

Kurtz, Edith. Interview by author. Tape recording. Oberlin, Ohio, 25 May 2001.

McCoy, Kate. Conversation with author. New York, New York, 27 March 2001.

Nagle, Elizabeth. Interview by author. Telephone interview. 11 June 2001.

Orr, Dorothy. Interview by author. Tape recording. Ocean, New Jersey, 15 May 2001.

Schwimmer, Helen. Interview by author. Tape recording. Oberlin, Ohio, 25 May 2001.

Thourot, Roberta. Conversation with author. Oberlin, Ohio, 26 May 2001.

Yans, Virginia. Email correspondence with author. 3 April 2001.

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Government Documents

Alabama Polytechnic Institute, "Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, State of Alabama." Unpublished report. Auburn, Alabama: 1923. Alabama Cooperative Extension Service, Auburn University Archives.

Iowa State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts. Education in Home Economics. Official Publication of Iowa State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts. Ames, Iowa: 1917.

Nebraska State Department of Public Instruction. "Something About Sewing for Nebraska Girls." Series II, Bulletin No. 10. Lincoln, Nebraska: Department of Public Instruction, 1909.

New York City Department of Education. Course of Study and Syllabuses in Sewing and Cooking for the Elementary Schools of The City of New York. New York: New York City Department of Education, 1903, revised 1905 and 1911.

Office of Indian Affairs. Outline Lessons in Housekeeping, including Cooking, Laundering, Dairying, and Nursing. Washington, DC: Government Printing Office, 1911.

---. Some Things that Girls Should Know How to Do, and Hence Should Learn How to Do When in School. Washington, DC: Government Printing Office, 1911.

---. Synopsis of Course in Sewing. Washington, DC: Government Printing Office, 1911.

Rutgers University College of Agriculture Extension Service. The Permanent Pattern. Extension Bulletin #58, by Catherine Griebel. New Brunswick, NJ: 1926.

U. S. Department of Agriculture. Present Trends in Home Sewing. Miscellaneous Publication No. 4, by Ruth O'Brien and Maude Campbell. Washington, DC: 1927.

U. S. Department of Labor. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Minimum Quantity Budget Necessary to Maintain a Worker's Family of Five at a Level of Health and Decency. Washington DC: 1920.

U. S. Bureau of the Census. United States Thirteenth Census, Manufacturing, 1910 and United States Fourteenth Census, Manufacturing, 1920. Bureau of the Census, Washington, DC, 1910 and 1920.

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Periodicals and Newspapers

American Girl
Blue Triangle News
The Colored American Magazine
Delineator
Fashion Service
Godey's Ladies' Book and Magazine
Harper's Bazaar
Inspiration
Ladies' Home Companion
Ladies' Home Journal
The Ladies' World
New York Daily Tribune
New York Evening Journal
New York Times
New York Tribune Illustrated Supplement
Outing
Scribner's Monthly
Wall Street Journal
War Work Bulletin
Woman's Home Companion
Yiddishes Tageblatt

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Secondary Books and Articles

Abelson, Elaine. When Ladies Go A-Thieving: Middle-Class Shoplifters in the Victorian Department Store. New York: Oxford University Press, 1989.

Banner, Louis. American Beauty. New York: Knopf, 1983.

Barnes, Ruth and Joanne B. Eicher. Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning. Oxford: Berg, 1992.

Bederman, Gail. Manliness and Civilization: A Cultural History of Gender and Race in the United States, 1880-1917. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1995.

Benson, Susan Porter. Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers, and Customers in American Department Stores, 1890-1940. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1986.

Boris, Eileen. Home To Work: Motherhood and the Politics of Industrial Homework in the United States. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994.

Boydston, Jeanne. Home & Work: Housework, Wages, and the Ideology of Labor in the Early Republic. New York: Oxford University Press, 1990.

Bradfield, Nancy. Costume in Detail, 1730-1930. 1968. Reprint, New York: Costume and Fashion Press, 1997.

Brandon, Ruth. A Capitalist Romance: Singer and the Sewing Machine. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1977.

Brumberg, Joan Jacobs. The Body Project: An Intimate History of American Girls. New York: Random House, 1997.

Burman, Barbara, ed. The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking. Oxford: Berg, 1999.

Butler, Judith. Bodies That Matter: On the Discursive Limits of Sex. New York: Routledge, 1993.

Cahn, Susan. Coming On Strong: Gender and Sexuality in Twentieth-Century Women's Sport. New York: Free Press, 1994.

Cohen, Lizbeth A. "Embellishing a Life of Labor: An Interpretation of the Material Culture of American Working-Class Homes, 1885-1915." Journal of American Culture 3 (1980): 752-775.

Connolly, Marguerite. "The Transformation of Home Sewing and the Sewing Machine in America, 1850-1929." Ph.D. diss., University of Delaware, 1994.

Cooper, Grace Rogers. The Sewing Machine; Its Invention and Development. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1976.

Cott, Nancy F. The Grounding of Modern Feminism. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1987.

Cowan, Ruth Schwartz. More Work for Mother: The Ironies of Household Technology from the Open Hearth to the Microwave. New York: Basic Books, 1983.

Davis, Fred. Fashion, Culture and Identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992.

De Grazia, Victoria, ed. The Sex of Things: Gender and Consumption in Historical Perspective. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1996.

Degenhardt, Mary and Judith Kirsch. Girl Scout Collector's Guide: 75 Years of Uniforms, Insignia, Publications & Keepsakes. Leonard, IL: Wallace-Homestead Book Co., 1987.

Derks, Scott, ed. The Value of a Dollar: Prices and Incomes in the United States, 1860-1989. Lakeville, CT: Grey House Publishing, 1999.

Deutsch, Sarah. No Separate Refuge: Culture, Class, and Gender on an Anglo-Hispanic Frontier in the American Southwest, 1880-1940. New York: Oxford University Press, 1987.

Dickson, Carole Anne. "Patterns for Garments: A History of the Paper Garment Pattern Industry in America to 1976." Ph.D. diss., Ohio State University, 1979.

Elias, Norbert, and Eric Dunning. Quest for Excitement: Sport and Leisure in the Civilizing Process. New York: Oxford, 1986.

Enstad, Nan. Ladies of Labor, Girls of Adventure: Working Women, Popular Culture, and Labor Politics at the Turn of the Twentieth Century. New York: Columbia University Press, 1999.

Ewen, Elizabeth. Immigrant Women in the Land of Dollars. New York: Monthly Review Press, 1985.

Fernandez, Nancy Page. "Innovations for Home Dressmaking and the Popularization of Stylish Dress." Journal of American Culture 17 (1994): 23-33.

Formanek-Brunell, Miriam. Made to Play House: Dolls and the Commercialization of American Girlhood, 1830-1930. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1993.

Franklin, Penelope, ed. Private Pages: Diaries of American Women 1830s-1970. New York: Ballantine Books, 1986.

Friedman-Kasada, Kathie. Memories of Migration: Gender, Ethnicity, and Work in the Lives of Jewish and Italian Women in New York, 1870-1924 Albany: State University of New York Press: 1996.

Garvey, Ellen Gruber. "Reframing the Bicycle: Advertising-Supported Magazines and Scorching Women." American Quarterly 47 (March 1995): 66-101.

Gamber, Wendy. The Female Economy: The Millinery and Dressmaking Trades, 1860-1930. Urbana and Chicago: University of Illinois Press, 1997.

Glenn, Susan A. Daughters of the Shtetl: Life and Labor in the Immigrant Generation. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1990.

Gordon, Sarah. "‘Any Desired Length': Negotiating Gender Through Sport Clothing, 1870-1925." In Beauty and Business: Commerce, Gender and Culture in Modern America, edited by Philip Scranton. New York: Routledge, 2001.

Greene, Susan. "Service with Style: Indigo, Manganese Bronze, and Hoyle's Purple Dress Prints, 1800-1855." Dress 26 (1999): 17-30.

Grover, Kathryn, ed. Fitness in American Culture: Images of Health, Sport, and the Body, 1830-1940, Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press, 1989),

Guttman, Allen. Women's Sports: A History. New York: Columbia University Press, 1991.

Hewitt, Nancy A. Southern Discomfort: Women's Activism in Tampa, Florida, 1880s-19020s. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 2001.

Higginbotham, Evelyn Brooks. Righteous Discontent: The Women's Movement in the Black Baptist Church, 1990-1920. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1993.

Hill, Ruth Edmonds, ed. The Black Women Oral History Project. 10 vols. Westport, CT: Meckler, 1991.

Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits: The Evolution of Modern Dress. New York, Knopf, 1994.

Horowitz, Roger and Arwen Mohun, eds. His and Hers: Gender, Consumption, and Technology. Charlottesville: University Press of Virginia, 1998.

Horton, Laurel. Mary Black's Family Quilts: Memory and Meaning in Everyday Life. Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 2005.

Hunter, Jane H. How Young Ladies Became Girls: The Victorian Origins of American Girlhood. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2002.

Hunter, Tera W. To ‘Joy My Freedom: Southern Black Women's Lives and Labors After the Civil War. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1997.

Jenson, Joan M., and Sue Davidson, eds. A Needle, A Bobbin, A Strike: Women Needleworkers in America. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1984.

Jones, Lu Ann. Mama Learned Us to Work: Farm Women in the New South. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2002.

Joselit, Jenna Weissman. A Perfect Fit: Clothes, Character, and the Promise of America. New York: Henry Holt & Co., 2001.

Katz, Jane, ed. Messengers of the Wind: Native American Women Tell Their Life Stories New York: Ballantine Books, 1995.

Kessler-Harris, Alice. In Pursuit of Equity: Women, Men, and the Quest for Economic Citizenship in 20th-Century America. New York: Oxford University Press, 2001.

---. Women Have Always Worked: A Historical Overview. New York: The Feminist Press, 1981.

Kidwell, Claudia. Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers' Drafting Systems in the United States. Washington, DC: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1979.

---. "Women's Bathing and Swimming Costume in the United States," United States National Museum Bulletin 250 (1968): 2-32 [repaginated as 169-200].

Kidwell, Claudia B. and Valerie Steele. Men and Women: Dressing the Part. Washington, DC: Smithsonian University Press, 1989.

Laver, James. Costume & Fashion, A Concise History. 1969. Reprint, London: Thames and Hudson, 1988.

Lazerson, Marvin. Origins of the Urban School. Cambridge, MA.: Harvard University Press, 1971.

Leavitt, Sarah A. From Catherine Beecher to Martha Stewart: A Cultural History of Domestic Advice. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2002.

Levine, Susan. "Workers' Wives, Gender, Class, and Consumerism in the 1920s U.S." Gender and History 3 (spring 1991): 45-64.

Livingston, James. Pragmatism and the Political Economy of Cultural Revolution, 1850-1940. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1994.

---. Pragmatism, Feminism and Democracy: Rethinking the Politics of American History. New York: Routledge, 2001.

Lomawaima, K. Tisianina. "Domesticity in the Federal Indian Schools: The Power of Authority over Mind and Body." American Ethnologist 20 (1993): 227-240.

Lynd, Helen Merrell and Robert S. Lynd. Middletown: A Study in Contemporary American Culture. New York: Harcourt, Brace and Co., 1929.

Mangan, J.A., and Roberta Park, eds. From ‘Fair Sex' to Feminism: Sport and the Socialization of Women in the Industrial and Post-Industrial Eras. London: F. Cass, 1987.

Matthews, Glenna. "Just a Housewife": The Rise and Fall of Domesticity in America. New York: Oxford University Press, 1987.

McGovern, James B. "The American Woman's Pre-World War I Freedom in Manners and Morals." Journal of American History 55 (September 1968): 315-333.

Mihesuah, Devon A. Cultivating the Rosebuds: The Education of Women at the Cherokee Female Seminary, 1851-1909. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1993.

The Museum of Modern Art, New York. The Hampton Album, 44 Photographs by Frances B. Johnston from an album of the Hampton Institute (New York: Doubleday & Co., 1966).

National Association of State Universities and Land Grant Colleges. The Land-Grant Tradition. Washington, DC: National Association of State Universities and Land Grant Colleges, 1995.

Norton, Mary Beth, and Ruth M. Alexander, eds. Major Problems in American Women's History. Lexington, Massachusetts: D.C. Heath & Co., 1996.

Osaki, Amy Boyce. "A ‘Truly Feminine Employment': Sewing and the Early Nineteenth-Century Woman." Winterthur Portfolio 23 (1988): 225-241.

Peiss, Kathy. Cheap Amusements: Working Women and Leisure in Turn-of-the-Century New York. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1986.

Pellegrin, Nicole. "Les Vertues de ‘l'Ouvrage' - Recherches sur la Feminization des Travaux d'Aiguille (XVI-XVIII Siècles)" (The Virtues of Work: Research on the Feminization of Needlework (16th-18th Centuries). Revue D'Histoire Moderne et Contemporaine 46-4 (Octobre-Decembre 1999): 747-769.

Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie. Translated by Richard Bienvenu, Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994.

Rieff, Lynne Anderson. "'Rousing the People of the Land': Home Demonstration Work in the Deep South, 1914-1950." Ph.D. Dissertation, Auburn University, 1995.

Sagness, Arlene, ed. Clothes Lines, Party Lines, and Hemlines. Fargo: North Dakota Extension Homemakers Council, 1989.

Scanlon, Jennifer. Inarticulate Longings: The Ladies' Home Journal, Gender, and the Promises of Consumer Culture. New York: Routledge, 1995.

Schneirov, Matthew. The Dream of a New Social Order: Popular Magazines in America, 1893-1914. New York: Columbia University Press, 1994.

Schreier, Barbara. Becoming American Women: Clothing and the Jewish Immigrant Experience, 1880-1920. Chicago: Chicago Historical Society, 1994.

Schorman, Rob. "Ready or Not: Custom-Made Ideals and Ready-Made Clothes in Late 19th-Century America." Journal of American Culture 19 (1996): 111-120.

Severa, Joan L. Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900. Kent, Ohio: The Kent State University Press, 1995.

Sharpless, Rebecca. Fertile Ground, Narrow Choices: Women on Texas Cotton Farms, 1900-1940. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1999.

Simonsen, Jane. Making Home Work: Domesticity and Native American Assimilation in the American West, 1860-1919. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2006.

Shaw, Stephanie. What a Woman Ought to Be and to Do: Black Professional Women Workers During the Jim Crow Era. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1996.

Stansell, Christine. City of Women: Sex and Class in New York 1789-1860. New York: Knopf, 1982.

Strasser, Susan, Charles McGovern and Matthias Judt, eds. Getting and Spending: European and American Consumer Societies in the Twentieth Century. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998.

Strasser, Susan. Never Done: A History of American Housework. New York: Pantheon Books, 1982.

Sullivan, Joan L. "In Pursuit of Legitimacy: Home Economists and the Hoover Apron in World War I." Dress 26 (1999): 31-46.

Susman, Warren. Culture as History: The Transformation of American Society in the Twentieth Century. New York: Pantheon books, 1984.

Terkel, Studs. Hard Times: An Oral History of the Great Depression. New York: The New Press, 1970.

Turbin, Carole. Working Women of Collar City: Gender, Class, and Community in Troy, New York, 1864-1886. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1992.

Twenty-Five Years of Retailing, 1911-1936. New York: National Retail Dry Goods Association, 1936.

Ulrich, Laurel Thatcher. A Midwife's Tale: The Life of Martha Ballard, Based on Her Diary, 1785-1812. New York: Vintage Books, 1990.

Waalkes, Mary Amanda. "Working in the Shadow of Racism and Poverty: Alabama's Black Home Demonstration Agents, 1915-1939." Ph.D. diss., University of Colorado at Boulder,1998.

Waller-Zuckerman, Mary Ellen. "Old Homes in a City of Perpetual Change, Women's Magazines, 1890-1916." Business History Review 63 (Winter 1989): 715-756.

Walsh, Margaret. "The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women's Dress Pattern Industry." Journal of American History 66 (1979): 299-313.

Warner, Patricia. "Clothing the American Woman for Sport and Physical Education, 1860 to 1940: Public and Private." Ph.D dissertation., University of Minnesota, 1986.

Welter, Barbara. "The Cult of True Womanhood, 1820-1860." American Quarterly 18 (1966): 151-174.

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Web Links

American Sewing Guild
Auburn University Digital Library
Butterick, McCalls, Vogue Patterns
The Hagley Museum and Library
The Hermitage
The Library of Congress
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Mood Designer Fabrics
The Museum of the City of New York
The New-York Historical Society
The New York Public Library
The Palace of the Governors
The Schlesinger Library
The Tamiment Library & Robert F. Wagner Labor Archives
Spelman College
The University of Rhode Island Historic Textile and Costume Collection
Vanishing Georgia
The Commercial Pattern Archive at the University of Rhode Island
Winterthur Museum and Library
The Wisconsin Historical Society

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